France: Madiran in Autumn

Our local patch of the Hautes-Pyrénées doesn't do good wine, although there is plenty of poor to average swilling around in reused bidons. Handle with care! We have to go a whole hour north for the gem which is Madiran. While the village is in our department, the three thousand plus acres of vineyards that make up the AOC also straddle those of the Gers and Pyrénées-Atlantiques. Oddly enough, although we often drink Madiran reds and the less well known whites Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh and Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh sec as our decent wine of choice, in almost six years we've never made it to the village to see the vines or feel the terroir between our toes. 

Dreading a repeat of the shattered illusions experienced with our summer detour to Roquefort, where we found no more than a desolate factory town, peopled only by tourists and sales staff (it was a Saturday) and without even the faintest of cheesy whiffs in the air, we headed out to Madiran. To limit the risks of disappointment we decided to make this a motorbike ride, and took a roundabout route, enjoying the quiet roads and rolling countryside. 

Countryside around Madiran

The landscape was coloured by the rich oranges and golds of autumn leaves, and the maize harvest which was in full swing. There is nothing like the ball bearing effect of hard corn kernals beneath your wheels to add a little spice to a ride! The temperature headed beyond the mid twenties, defying the season; perfect biking weather. We were in for a wonderful ride whatever the destination had in store for us. And if we wanted to do some tasting and bring a case or two back? Well, we'd just have to go again!

So what of the village itself - a Roquefort? Not a bit of it. This is not a landscape domianted by vines like Bordeaux or the Loire valley, indeed they can be hard to spot amongst the maize and wheat fields, and forests of chestnuts, and Madiran itself perfectly reflects this. 

Church and Vineyard

The village is compact, ancient grey, cream or stone walls and red tiled roofs with the church of Sainte-Marie de Madiran standing tall and solid at the top of the hill. A pleasing, quietly working place, typical of the farming villages in the area.

Vines planted in 1989

Vines planted in 1989

You might like to read interesting article on the wines themselves and their health benefits here.